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Tag: fashion

taste

Marisa Aragón Ware.

All year I’ve been reading about taste. Someone somewhere identified that one of the things AI can’t do is “taste.” Now it seems a certain part of the world can’t stop talking about taste, and much of it is trying to define taste, presumably to boil it down into a useful prompt.

This is a bit of a shift from the prevailing notion of “you’re allowed to like stuff,” which turned into “can’t we just let people enjoy things,” which quickly warped into “you have to like everything or you are a monster.” Especially if lots of other people seem to like it, which is one reason why the mainstream culture is so completely flat right now. Taste was demonised by poptimists who defined themselves as victims of those with taste.

And now everyone’s turned around and gone, oh shit, the robots can create everything I said I liked and I’m a slop-eater. There is no status or cultural cache in that. People are freaking the fuck out. They’re trying to find out what taste even is.

Tastemakers have discernment. They know they don’t have to and aren’t supposed to like everything, and they immediately distrust anything so flat and edgeless that it screams of being designed to be liked by the largest number of people. They have knowledge and powers of recognition, they have context and they own their idiosyncrasies. They don’t like what other people like, because they have taste and other people don’t. Other people sit on the kerb of a street in a town that isn’t pretty enough for Instagram influencers, their skin aged prematurely by their phone screens and the digital billboards all around them, googling for peptides to restore the collagen their own phones are evaporating out of their faces and being told by the Google AI summary that tobacco reduces skin cancer. Goldfish with tits of congealed microplastic fuck in the black water sludging its way down the gutter. A “celebrity,” which they understand to mean “someone who is on a screen somewhere for a period of time longer than fifteen seconds,” appears on the nearest digital billboard. Its teeth are white. Taylor Swift white, Rylan white, bone-white, skull-white, nothing-white. The alien teeth seem to swell on the screen, as an inhuman voice drones from the frame about low-cost funerals to the musical accompaniment of something Spotify has inserted into eight million playlists this year. They know the song intimately but they don’t know what it’s called or have any context about it beyond the fact that it must be popular because all the machines make them listen to it over and over again. The teeth seem to invert and bend, twisting inwards to become the event horizon of a black hole that emits only the elongated howling word ddddeattttthhh in an utterance that sounds eerily like Pedro Pascal’s because he had a spare three minutes to ensure he was literally fucking everywhere. They run from the town into the countryside, because “people” on X have told them to “touch grass.” But the grass bends away from their feet, because even vegetal microintelligences can tell when something approaches that is essentially Wrong and no longer of this world. They fall to their knees and whisper for mercy to a seedling in the undergrowth, as an AI gardening podcaster had once told them to talk to plants. But the seedling blackens and crumbles under their graveyard breath. They crawl through the undergrowth to the shore, and look at the water, but they do not know how to feel about the water because no mathematics has told them how to feel about it, for they are basically just a meat coffin containing a low-voltage ghost that knows nothing and feels nothing beyond a faint, fearful urge to spend money on tokens to feed huge calculators that might tell them what to like. In the weeks and months to come, even the carrion eaters reject the corpse by the shore, instinctively recognising that its grey fibres contain no nutrition. Because they have taste.

TODAY

TELEMETRY:

OPERATIONS: got a pitch off the desk yesterday, got some prose down, but not enough of anything else. Wiped down the boards, expired some hanging projects
STATUS: the curse of putting the winter clothes away: woke up to a rainy 13C day, so I’m in a grey waffle-knit henley and a grey Wrangler snap-front. A lightless day.

Swatch Metropolis.


READING: THE REVOLUTIONISTS, Jason Burke (UK) (US+)
LISTENING: AJ Brady warned me weeks ago that a new Boards Of Canada was coming, and I’m only just now giving it a listen.

MISSION CONTROL: I can be contacted via the Cheng Caplan Company or Inkwell Management. Link in masthead to join my free newsletter.

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waiting for the drop

Will Stovall.

There is, for me, a weird pleasure in taking a night to wait for an idea to drop by touring the mental terrain I’d like it to drop in. It’s somewhere between setting intentions and going for a walk in a space where I hope to see something wonderful – and if I don’t, then I’ve still had a nice walk.

TELEMETRY:

Alice Rohrwacher, one of the best filmmakers working today, has started production on her adaptation of Audrey Niffenegger’s bestselling novel “Three Incestuous Sisters,” with Ottessa Moshfegh co-writing the script with her.

The cast includes Dakota Johnson, Saoirse Ronan, Jessie Buckley, Josh O’Connor, Mick Jagger, and Isabella Rossellini.

We were wondering if this was, in fact, the black-and-white silent film Rohrwacher has been teasing for well over a year. Now, The Film Stage has confirmed that it is indeed that movie. Hélène Louvart is the cinematographer.

Yes, in an era when blockbuster cinema gets louder and more chaotic, Rohrwacher is moving in the opposite direction — toward muteness. A silent film in 2026 sounds like a provocation.

Recent trend pieces I’ve read on the return of grunge style mostly highlight the source of influence as the 90s because it’s the closest available shorthand. But what’s happening now feels more specific than nostalgia alone. The aesthetic gaining ground is less Kurt Cobain and more a compound of faded Japanese denim, cracked leather, oxidized silver, washed-black everything, oversized knits with visible wear, military and workwear references, and old band-shirt textures.

Think: Archival vintage crossed with distressed luxury crossed with a deliberate refusal of perfection.


READING: THE REVOLUTIONISTS, Jason Burke (UK) (US+)
LAST WATCHED: Started NOUVELLE VAGUE but got too distracted by work thoughts to follow the subtitles haha
DRINK:

This subtle hint about cocktail delivery schedules was placed in the kitchen yesterday:

MISSION CONTROL: I can be contacted via the Cheng Caplan Company or Inkwell Management. Link in masthead to join my free newsletter.

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same river: 11feb26

Sorin Neamtu

Still sick. Still raining. Both conditions seem permanent.

TODAY:

Accessions:

Picked up a sample of this last year, it was on sale yesterday.

UNIT X: HOW THE PENTAGON AND SILICON VALLEY ARE TRANSFORMING THE FUTURE OF WAR, Raj M. Shah and Christopher Kirchhoff (UK) (US+)

STATUS: deth
READING: A FIELD GUIDE TO REALITY, Joanna Kavenna (UK) (US+)
LISTENING:


MISSION CONTROL: I can be contacted via the Cheng Caplan Company or Inkwell Management. Link in masthead to join my free newsletter.

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eaten by pigs: 9feb26

Bruno Pontiroli

I started to feel a little better yesterday, managed to overextend myself by cleaning out the chicken coop and turning the compost bins, and then got mild food poisoning. I’m ready to lay down on the edge of the property and get eaten by pigs like in DEADWOOD.

I have remembered, for the first time in a week, to do my short stack: 2000mg liposomal nicotinamide riboside with TMG and Pterostilbene, Vit D3 and K2, 1 Floradix for insurance, taken with a bowl of blueberries, blackberries, almonds and honey.

TODAY:

  • How Japan’s prime minister will use her massive new mandate
  • SpaceX shifts focus from Mars to Moon, which seems from here to be about Musk working hard to realign himself with the White House. Also, since the US is all about the Moon in terms of space policy right now, the money is right there, and SpaceX has its eye on ramping to 10,000 launches per annum, largely in pursuit of lofting space-based AI compute. It’s also worth nothing that Japan have now started beaming space-based solar power back to earth via microwave.
  • PROJECT HAIL MARY trailer. People are saying it contains spoilers. It does not. A trailer for a buddy movie that introduces both buddies does not constitute a spoiler.

Bought myself a leather notebook cover that can contain up to six Field Notes notebooks, from InkitLeather here in the UK.

I also had my eye on the covers from Veyrona, but it looks like they might be winding down.

Additionally, I saw something unusual on MUJI, of all places: a Vietnamese variant on the French chore jacket, long-cut/fingertip-length, in a blend of denim and kapok, which I picked up in a medium grey with matching wide-leg trouser.

I’m wearing a new ribbed grey 100% cotton henley that I picked up for a song from a site that didn’t appear to know they were selling it, under a black Carharrt work shirt I’ve had for a dozen years and which seems to be indestructible, paired with a black Carharrt utility pant. I love workwear and I cannot lie. I fell back in love with clothes a few years back and am enjoying it a lot.

STATUS: siiick
READING: A FIELD GUIDE TO REALITY, Joanna Kavenna (UK) (US+) , M SON OF THE CENTURY, Antonio Scurati (UK) (US+)
LISTENING: Just discovered Duo Ruut via Night Tracks on Radio 4:


Had to hunt around a bit, but it is on CD.

About to switch on the Retro Nano and stream some podcasts from the phone: I deleted hundreds of episodes of stuff from the app that I know I will simply never get to.

LAST WATCHED: bit of Ibsen’s THE DOLL’S HOUSE on BBC 4.

THINKING ABOUT: continuing the shift away from devices to writing on paper for everything

MISSION CONTROL: I can be contacted via the Cheng Caplan Company or Inkwell Management. Link in masthead to join my free newsletter.

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NINE BELLS clothes hangers

So I just took delivery of twenty clothes hangers.

A couple of years ago, I had to make some dietary changes due to having entered the “age-related food intolerances” era of life. Basically, my genetic heritage says that I am nearly dead, and therefore my body believes I no longer need to digest lactose or gluten properly and should instead be preparing to leave the village and die in a ditch in the wilderness so as not to be a further burden on the community.

(The real hack here was buying a stack of unbreakable bowls that I can just throw leaves and protein and nuts into and stir with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. We refer to these as “the sadness bowls” in our house, as in “yes, I am having a sadness bowl for my lunch again.” These bowls are also for the berries, almonds and honey I have for breakfast.)

(Also worth noting that I made a few further adjustments after reading ULTRA PROCESSED PEOPLE)

Said dietary changes have led to me losing around four inches off my waist over a couple of years, which I wasn’t expecting. This was a good excuse to buy new clothes, as I love clothes. I am, however, bad at throwing clothes out, and there’s a voice in the back of my head that demands Cornish pasties and thinks that one day a perfect gluten intolerance tablet will be invented that will allow me to go face down in a six foot pile of them so I should probably keep the baggy jeans.

Therefore I now own more clothes than I have since my thirties. So many more, in fact, that I’ve had to order a lot of clothes hangars, each one of which will have to hang three garments as I tend to buy clothes as capsules, a few of which capsules have a matching shoe so oh shit I just realised I need a shoe rack too.

Accidental weight loss turns out to be expensive and somehow also space-consuming.

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morning computer brain work

Roger Dean.

While companies like Elon Musk’s Neuralink are hard at work on brain-computer interfaces that require surgery to cut open the skull and insert a complex array of wires into a person’s head, a team of researchers at MIT have been researching a wireless electronic brain implant that they say could provide a non-invasive alternative that makes the technology far easier to access.

They describe the system, called Circulatronics, as more of a treatment platform than a one-off brain chip. Working with researchers from Wellesley College and Harvard University, the MIT team recently released a paper on the new technology, which they describe as an autonomous bioelectronic implant.

Sportswear brand Nike has unveiled its Mind 001 and Mind 002 trainers, designed in collaboration with neuroscientists to improve the connection between mind and body.

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Described as the company’s “first neuroscience-based footwear”, the shoes were created using data collected from brain scans at Nike’s recently established Mind Science Department.

“These are the first shoes designed from the brain down, not the ground up,” Nike chief science officer Matthew Nurse told Dezeen.

morning computer: some useful things first thing in the day.

My free weekly newsletter is at https://orbitaloperations.beehiiv.com/

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telemetry 29sep25

UNCLASSIFIED: Edinburgh Festival Highlights

Join Elizabeth Alker with a selection of fresh music from genre-defying artists as we journey through landscapes of ambient and experimental sounds. Tonight she plays highlights from some of Unclassifield’s favourite artists’ live concerts at the Edinburgh International Festival.

Today’s jacket was the Yarmouth Oilskins sailcloth Engineer chore jacket.

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telemetry 12sep25

I suspect this embed won’t work, but I got reminded of the time I stayed at the Juvet Landscape Hotel, now famed as the location for EX MACHINA and SUCCESSION season 4:

Edie Campbell profile:

As part of my rapid acceleration into my boomer years, I almost always have my phone on loud. It goes back on silent as soon as I get inside the M25. But in the country, where it’s windy and blowy, I have it on loud because I don’t hear it otherwise. Also when someone calls me, it announces who is calling. I am actually 70.

Someone explain to me how Mads Mikkelsen makes the worst colours in the world work for him? See also literally every episode of HANNIBAL.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m002hx72 – Avi Avital directs Between Worlds and Georgia’s Rustavi Choir in music from the Black Sea

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morning computer clock time

Maybe Next Time.

While the exhibition is physically immersive, its conceptual focus is time (or rather, how time is experienced in prison). As Caputo explains, “Time in prison is never neutral; it is structured, regimented, and often experienced as an oppressive force.” The exhibition’s title, Prison Times, nods to this fragmented, fictional timescale, where the outside world runs on one clock and the incarcerated on another.

A jacket with built-in electric fans designed by Japanese fashion brand Anrealage keeps staff cool at the Nippon Telegraph and Telephone Corporation pavilion at the Osaka Expo.

The pavilion aims to depict the future of communication, and Morinaga applied the same idea when designing the uniforms.

“These clothes transcend division and disparity, connect the dots and expand human potential by sharing senses,” the designer explained.

morning computer: some useful things first thing in the day.

My free weekly newsletter is at https://orbitaloperations.beehiiv.com/

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